Oaxaca Day of The Dead 2024 Celebration: Ultimate Visitor Guide
Have you always imagined celebrating Day of the Dead in Oaxaca?
Oaxaca Day of the Dead is one of the most magical and bucket list worthy experiences.
Although celebrated in all of Mexico, Oaxaca is the best place to participate in the festival as it is so much more than a party.
Oaxaca does an excellent job focusing on traditions and the meaning behind every aspect of the holiday.
I have been fortunate to visit Oaxaca a few times and on my last visit take in every wonderful activity from building an altar, visiting cemeteries, eating traditional Day of the Dead foods, and more.
In this post, I’ll provide all the pertinent information you’ll need to attend Day of the Dead in Oaxaca including where to stay, main activities, best Dia de los Muertos tours to book and more.
Tip: Don’t just come for Day of the Dead, but plan to come up to a week before the festivities start to see all the main Oaxaca attractions and see the city being decorated for the fiesta.
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When Is Day Of The Dead?
First question many have, is what day is Day of the Dead? Is it one day, two, or more?
Officially, Day of the Dead is celebrated over two days (Nov. 1st and Nov. 2nd) kicking off on the eve of Oct. 31st in Mexico.
Festivities begin the days leading up to October 31st, so plan to arrive in town 4 – 6 days days before to maximize your experience.
October 31st
At midnight on October 31st, it is said that the young souls (babies and children) are able to cross over. That their spirits are able to be with their families for a short 24 hours.
November 1st
November 1st is also known as Day of the Innocents (Dia de los Inocentes) where the souls of the innocents (babies and children) rejoin with their family for one day.
At midnight on the 1st, the “los angelitos” or little angels must return to heaven.
Also at midnight, is when the doors open to the adults who are deceased. It is now their time to get together with their families and friends for 24 hours.
November 2nd
It is on November 2nd that is officially known as Day of the Dead in Mexico (Dia se los Muertos).
It is on this day that the city of Oaxaca comes alive celebrating together with those living and the spirits of their ancestors in one place, usually at the cemetery or at the altar in their home.
Tip: Another reason to come to Oaxaca early? Many of the main attractions within and surrounding Oaxaca City close for those two to three days.
What Is Day of the Dead in Spanish?
Before we go any further, you might be familiar with Day of the Dead but in Spanish it is translated to Dia de los Muertos.
So, expect to see the two interchangeably throughout this post and when you are in Oaxaca for the celebration.
What Is Day Of The Dead & Why Is It Celebrated?
Day of the Dead or Dia de los Muertos is a Mexican holiday and a time for celebration remembering loved ones (their souls) that have passed.
For a brief window, loved ones can cross over (one day on Nov. 1st or 2nd) to the world of the living to visit with friends and family.
It is a day each year when families can come together to celebrate!
At first you might think this may be a sad day but it is the complete opposite with gatherings, laughter, food, music, and mezcal.
But understand this IS NOT a party like Mardi Gras! It is a celebration around family, so much more laid back and quiet in comparison.
The central activity of Dia de los Muertos is to build an altar and make offerings to their dearly departed known as offrendas.
These offerings are important items that the deceased loved and are there for them to enjoy on November 2nd when they cross over.
Below I will go into detail on each of the Day of the Dead traditions that are an essential part of the festivities.
Tip: I don’t have kids but before heading to Oaxaca for the Day of the Dead, I watched the animated movie, “Coco” which is a cartoon-like story surrounding the meaning and traditions of Dia de los Muertos.
I loved the movie and thought they did a very good job at explaining all the key points around the festival.
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Day Of The Dead Oaxaca Festival Schedule
Prior To October 31st
If you can, arrive at least 4 days before November 1st. I arrived a week before and thought it was perfect.
This way I had time to see many of the Oaxaca attractions before they shut down for the Day of the Dead.
Secondly, you can watch as decorations go up and see the city come alive in a completely new way. And without the massive crowds encountered between Oct. 31st – November 2nd.
Some of the top activities to take advantage of before the festival begins are:
- Take a Oaxacan cooking class focused around Day of the Dead
- Visit Tlacolula Market (Sunday only) for the Barbacoa tacos!
- Visit Marigold flower fields for photos right before they are picked
- Visit a mezcal distillery and sample Pechuga mezcal only made for special occasions!
- Eat the Pan de Muertos (Dead Bread) from Mitla
October 31st
October 31st is when the Day of the Dead activities really kick off.
During the day the last minute decorations are finalized, foods are being prepared, and the town gets condensed with people arriving in anticipation.
On the eve of October 31st, locals and visitors go to the cemeteries in preparation for the children or the “angelitos” to cross at midnight. This begins the Day of Innocents which lasts 24 hours.
The most popular cemeteries to visit on October 31st are:
- Xoxocotlan Cemetery (Xoxo)
- Atzompa Cemetery
Note: Many of my photos at night are from these two cemeteries.
November 1st (Dia de los Inocentes)
November 1st is the Day of the Innocents and in the Catholic religion also known as All Saints Day.
As the day progresses, the city gets livelier with people walking around seeing all the finished decorations, get their face painted, listening to music, and watching the comparsa (parades) passing by.
It is on the evening of November 1st that families return to the cemeteries to say good bye to the “angelitos” and get ready to greet the adults as their turn at midnight arrives.
One of the more popular cemeteries to visit is the Panteon General in the Jalatlaco neighborhood of Oaxaca City.
Overall, November 1st is the most festive and liveliest day.
Note: Due to overcrowding, the city may close some of the cemeteries to tourists to give local families more privacy, even at the last minute.
November 2nd (Dia de los Muertos)
Come November 2nd, it is the official Day of the Dead that coincides with All Souls Day (Catholic).
It is the day when the adults return to the land of the living and their families.
Although a quieter day, there is still a lot to see in do in the historic center of Oaxaca City.
As many families spent the night in the cemeteries, today is more relaxed. Perfect for enjoying a great meal, taking a stroll, and remembering loved ones.
You may have seen artwork and paper-mache figurines of the thin and very distinctive black hairless dogs throughout the city.
It is thought that these black dogs known as Xolo (Xoloitzcuintli) are spiritual guides to the deceased.
As midnight approaches, the deceased adults are escorted by the Xolo back through the gates until again next year.
Where To Stay In Oaxaca City
The best place to stay in Oaxaca for Day of the Dead is in the historic district of Oaxaca City where all the top attractions, restaurants, museums, and squares are located.
Most of the Day of the Dead celebrations such as parades, beautiful decorations, and exhibits will all be in this region of the city.
If hotels are booked in the city center, my next recommendation is to stay in the Xochimilco or Jalatlaco neighborhoods which border the city center.
Xochimilco is directly north of the city center about a 15 – 20 minute walk. Whereas the Jalatlaco neighborhood is directly west of downtown Oaxaca City and about a 15 – 25 minute walk.
Each area is home to outstanding restaurants, cafes, and bars. Here are my recommendations for the three areas of Oaxaca City to stay in.
Note: Any hotel within a few block radius of the Zocalo will be loud into the late hours so bring ear plugs!
Oaxaca City Historic District
- Hotel Oaxaca Real – budget
- Hotel Marques Del Valle – budget
- Casa Oaxaca
- Casa Antonieta
- Parador de Alcala
- Boulenc Bed & Bread
- Quinta Real Oaxaca
Xochimilco Neighborhood
As Xochimilco is a regular neighborhood, you’ll have more vacation rentals and B&Bs here. It is also a much quieter area if that is something you seek.
Check Vacation Rentals In Xochimilco!
Jalatlaco Neighborhood
Find Vacation Rentals In Jalatlaco!
Tip: If you want to stay in the historic city center, you should plan to book hotels 10 to 12 months in advance to get a good location and rate.
Best Oaxaca Day Of The Dead Tour Options
There are so many great tours to take in Oaxaca including those centered around Day of the Dead.
My personal recommendation is to book a tour where the traditions are respected and done tastefully.
Note: For Day of the Dead, book tours no less than 6 weeks before. The best tours sell out fast up to 3 months before!
I have personally taken these tours or familiar with the tour operator and feel they do a wonderful job of respecting the Oaxacan traditions while showing you how you can participate and understand the meaning behind these traditions.
Tours vary from visiting cemeteries to visiting marigold flower fields, cooking classes and more.
Oaxaca Day of the Dead 7 Day Trip – No need to plan with this comprehensive trip centered around Dia de los Muertos activities, hotel, meals, and more. Led by National Geographic Journeys!
Visit Cemeteries Tour For Day of the Dead – Visit two popular cemeteries and learn all about the history and traditions of this magical holiday.
Explore The Marigold Fields Tour – Visit the beautiful marigold fields and learn all about the significance the marigold plays in the Day of the Dead.
Day Of The Dead Event Experience – Learn about the history and traditions, build an altar, visit a cemetery and more!
Day Of The Dead Traditions
Building A Day Of The Dead Altar
The focal point to any Day of the Dead celebration is the altar where you place “ofrendas” or offerings on.
Most families build an altar in their home, often in the courtyard. As you wander the streets of Oaxaca, you’ll see an altar in almost every shop, restaurant, and hotel courtyard.
It is quite fun to see how each one differs and the range of ofrendas placed on them. For any altar, there are a few key items that are to be arranged for the special occasion.
First, you’ll always find a framed photo of any beloved family or friends that have passed.
Followed by several marigold flowers, sugar skulls, fruit, sweets, Pan de Muerto, candles, a pitcher of water, and even a little bit of mezcal.
In addition, the favorite foods of the deceased will be present such as tamales, mole, and whatever snacks the person enjoyed the most during life.
People that have loved ones buried at nearby cemeteries will also build altars on the graves which is a beautiful thing to see.
Building of the altar may start a week before Dia de los Muertos but any perishables will be set on the altar a few days in advance at most.
Traditional Day Of The Dead Foods
Mole
Mole and Black Mole (Mole Negro) in particular is the most traditional mole served during the Day of the Dead festivities.
The most popular way to enjoy during this week is poured over turkey but sometimes over chicken and pork.
Chocolate, raisins, and spices are what add to the rich dark color.
Although there are officially 7 different mole sauces to try in Oaxaca, there truly is over 100 styles as each family or village will deviate a little from each other.
Tamales
Eating tamales this time of year is a given as corn represents earth, one of the four elements you find on an altar. The other three elements are wind, fire, and water.
In the Oaxaca region the tamale or “tamal” you’ll see often is made of blue or yellow corn and wrapped in banana leaves instead of the corn husks found in other regions.
This style of tamale in Oaxaca is known as Oaxaqueno Tamale and is quite delicious!
Tamales can have different shredded meats such as pork, chicken with cheese, mole, and even dried fruit.
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Pozole
A common dish families love to share is pozole, a wonderfully tasty soup that is hearty and perfect for the fall.
Depending on where you are in Mexico you might see red, white, or green pozole. In Oaxaca, the style you’ll encounter the most is red in color due to a mole paste that is blended in.
The broth soup is made with shredded pork or chicken, chiles, hominy, vegetables, spices, cilantro, and topped with some avocado.
Pan de Muerto
See the next section below!
Beer Made With Marigolds
During the period of Day of the Dead, you can find beer made with the bright yellow marigold flowers that you see all over the city.
I tried it and quite liked it. It gave it a slight citrus and floral notes that is a fun variation from the typical beer.
A common brand I saw was the Victoria Cempasuchil which is easily recognizable with the marigold flower on the label.
Pechuga Mezcal
You’ll find a wide assortment of mezcal in Oaxaca year round but come Dia de los Muertos or very important occasions, Pechuga Mezcal is enjoyed.
Pechuga translates to breast or “chicken breast” as it is finished mezcal that is distilled a third time with fruits (apples, bananas), raisins, nuts, and a chicken breast hung over the still during distillation.
The vapors add to the flavor and make it a quite unique type of mezcal to sip. I wasn’t sure if I would like it but did! If you get the chance, give it a try as it might surprise you.
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Bread For Day of The Dead
The Day of the Dead bread is more commonly referred to as “Pan de Muerto”.
What makes Pan de Muerto so special and how is it different than regular bread?
It is bread with a touch of sweetness in the shape of a round (or elongated) bun with variations of decorative designs.
It’s round shape is a symbol of life and death as in the “cycle of life”.
The top of the bread will often have a pattern that resembles bones. In the markets, you’ll come across Pan de Muerto that has a tear drop with a face of a woman. That represents the goddess Chimalma’s tears as she mourns.
With an egg and yeast like flavor, you might detect a hint of cinnamon or anise. If you travel to villages outside of Oaxaca City, try the various ways Pan de Muerto is made and decorated.
Of course, each will say theirs is the best! Some I sampled I absolutely loved and others I thought were ok.
It was fun buying from different vendors to see which ones I liked best.
Buy Day Of The Dead Flowers
Flowers are such an integral part of celebrating Day of the Dead not only in Oaxaca but all of Mexico.
And not just any flower but the vibrant yellow and orange Marigolds also referred to as Cempasuchil.
Marigolds have been the flower of choice since the holiday first started back during the Aztec era.
The reason marigolds are the star flower for Dia de los Muertos is because it is a native plant and it blooms the end of October/early November coinciding with the holiday.
It is believed that the scent of the marigolds are what lead and guide those in the afterlife to cross over to the world of the living on Day of the Dead.
It is why you’ll notice a path made out of marigold petals will always lead up to the altar.
Marigolds can be purchased at any of the markets in Oaxaca City a few days leading up to October 31st.
Join A Oaxaca Market Guided Tour & Buy Your Marigolds
If you arrive in Oaxaca early and want an incredible photo opportunity, take a tour to the marigold flower fields before they are cut. It is a beautiful sight!
Book Your Marigold Flower Fields Tour!
Visiting A Cemetery
Cemeteries across Mexico will have families coming together to greet their loved ones at midnight.
And in Oaxaca there a select number of cemeteries where you can get the full experience of witnessing this holiday as a visitor.
- Xoxocotlan Cemetery (Xoxo)
- Atzompa Cemetery
- Panteon General (Jalatlaco neighborhood)
- San Felipe Panteon
Tip: Depending on the number of people attending, the city may close the cemeteries to tourists to allow locals to enjoy their time without crowds.
See The Famous Sand Tapestries
Sand Tapestries or “Tapetes de Arena” are colorful works of art all made with sand and flowers on various streets or altars across Oaxaca.
To create the various colors, the sand is dyed with flower petals, seeds, beans, and other natural elements.
From a distance, they look like a painting but with depth as some sand tapestries have an elevated form of sculpture.
The vibrant sand carpets are a playful way of depicting scenes of death usually with a skeleton as the main visual.
The longest sand tapestry I viewed was on the pedestrian only street Calle de Macedonio Alcala between the Zocalo and Templo Santo Domingo.
Although you can find sand tapestries throughout Oaxaca, I found the most to be in the central historic area of Oaxaca City and the village of Zacchila.
If you have the time, make an effort to visit the village of Zacchila about 40 minutes from Oaxaca City.
I went the day after the main day to see the sand carpets so they were a little faded. Still, it was well worth the trip as it is home to the most sand tapestries in one location.
The best day to go is on November 1st before the sand and flower petals are taken away by the wind.
Coquiza Street leading from the church to the cemetery in Zacchila is where you’ll find not only the tapestries but tons of amazing Day of the Dead art murals.
Tip: If you are going to Zacchila, make a point to stop and see the ruins of Ex Convento Cuilapam de Guerrero on the way back.
Visit The Oaxaca Markets
No trip to Oaxaca is complete without having a market experience. The markets of Oaxaca are huge, crowded, and a sensory overload.
But that is what makes it so exciting to see all the produce, food, flowers, and local items you can find.
The markets are the best places to sample local Oaxacan food, buy marigold flowers, and pan de muerto.
These are my favorite 4 markets to visit with the first 3 in the center of town.
- Mercado Benito Juarez – steps from the Zocalo
- Mercado 20 de Noviembre – next to Mercado Benito Juarez
- Central de Abasto Market – This is my overall favorite, but don’t go alone! It’s easy to get lost so take a tour.
- Tlacolula Sunday Market – 45 minutes outside of Oaxaca City (SUNDAY only) for the best barbacoa tacos.
Join A Lively Comparsa
Comparsa more commonly referred to as a parade are a frequent and fun part of the Day of the Dead experience.
Starting around October 31st the comparsas seemed to be everywhere. All day long on every street I turned there seemed to be a small comparsa with the tall paper mache puppets, a band playing, and locals dancing.
If you have never seen one, make a point to stop and just smile at the joyful presence each parade brings with it.
And if you feel inclined, join the comparsa but always remember to be respectful and not interfere with the locals dancing.
Parades are more of a recent addition to the Mexican holiday that has taken off.
The biggest parade of the entire celebration is the Grand Parade or the Magna Comparsa which officially kicks off the holiday and lands anywhere between October 28th – November 1st depending on the year.
It’s usual route goes through the central historic district and passes by the Zocalo and ends at Plaza de la Danza.
The other huge comparsa is located in the Jalatlaco neighborhood on November 1st.
But don’t worry, there are several happening all over to see in case you miss one.
Day Of The Dead Decorations
Oaxaca is a colorful city no matter the time of the year but as Day of the Dead arrives, the city goes into overdrive in decorating!
In the historic district and surrounding neighborhoods every shop, restaurant, café, bar, hotel, and homes will be decked out in festive décor.
Along with altars, the most common decorations you’ll see are the intricate flowers, skulls, and unique embellishments around each doorway.
Some of my favorite had what looked like a bouquet made out of corn husks or even pan de muerto.
Bright yellow and orange marigolds might be the eye-catching decoration but don’t miss out on seeing the giant paper-mache puppets known as “Mojigangas”.
They are tall (~15 feet) and quite visible whether they are next to a doorway or up above the heads of those dancing in a comparsa (parade).
And don’t forget to glance up at the tissue paper-like flags hanging in an array of colors known as “papel picado”.
Dia de los Muertos Art Murals
I’ve been to Oaxaca a few times and no matter when you visit there are art murals everywhere.
But starting in October the number of art murals centered around Day of the Dead really ramps up making it a fantastic opportunity to admire art.
Besides downtown Oaxaca City, the best places to see some incredible art murals is in the neighborhoods of Xochomilco and Jalatlaco along with the village of Zacchila outside of the city.
It was so fun to see all the Day of the Dead art murals and I probably ended up taking a few hundred photos of just art murals!
Day Of The Dead Face Painting
The big question I had before attending my first Dia de los Muertos in Oaxaca was whether it was ok to get face painting or not.
The answer might vary depending on who you ask but generally I would say it is ok.
Some say it isn’t appropriate but the locals painted their faces just as much as visitors did, if not more. I always recommend following the behaviors of the locals to gauge whether something is ok to do.
The only time I would hesitate and not wear face paint is to some of the cemeteries.
Face painting for Day of the Dead got its origins in the early 1900s when the La Catrina was created.
Her distinctive style of face painting with a female skull, a headpiece made of marigold flowers, and a colorful dress originated as a defiant stand against European influence by an artist named Jose Guadalupe Posada.
The skeleton represented the poor and often humble reality of the local indigenous people yet mocking the European elite with their flowing dresses, hats, and flowers.
Fast forward to the 1940s and the image of La Catrina quickly became the iconic symbol of Dia de los Muertos.
She’s without question the most eye-catching and beautiful skeleton you have ever seen!
Note: Since the 2015 James Bond movie, “Spectre” where the opening scene featured a Day of the Dead parade, visitors to Mexico have increased greatly for the holiday. Funny enough, it was only a few minute scene that made this celebration incredibly famous.
Where Do You Get Face Painting?
As you are walking around the Zocalo and leading up to Templo Santo Domingo in Oaxaca centro (historic district), there are several stations to get your face painted.
You can find most located on Calle de Macedonio Alcala which is for pedestrians only.
Tip: Search online for examples of painted faces you like and use that to show the face painter if you want something specific.
Do’s And Don’ts Of Celebrating Day Of The Dead In Mexico
Do
- Bring marigold flowers to the cemeteries and place on graves if you want.
- Dress appropriately, similarly as the locals in modest dress often with bright colors.
- Ask permission of locals to take photos of them especially at a grave site.
- Be respectful and know that you are sharing in a local tradition.
- Arrive before the festival and spend time seeing Oaxaca prior to Day of the Dead.
- Carry pesos (small bills) to pay vendors and taxis.
- Stay at least 1 week to experience the top activities in addition to the festival.
Don’t
- Get drunk and treat this celebration as an excuse to overdo it. This isn’t Mardi Gras.
- Use a flash on your camera at the cemeteries as it is intrusive and disrespectful.
- Dress up like it is Halloween as it isn’t. No wearing random costumes.
- Touch or take things from altars in town or at the cemeteries.
- Be loud or obnoxious when you are walking through a cemetery.
Traveling To Oaxaca City
If you are flying into Oaxaca, you’ll arrive at Aeropuerto International Xoxocotlan (OAX) in Oaxaca City. The airport is about a 25 minute drive to the central historic district of town.
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After going through customs, you’ll be given an FMM form also known as a tourist card. HOLD ON TO IT!
You will need to hand it over when you leave Mexico and if you lose it, there may be a $30 fine.
After leaving customs, there are ATMs if you want to get pesos. More info on using ATMs and having cash on you in Mexico, in Traveling To Mexico Tips!
If you are traveling to Oaxaca City by bus, the bus will arrive at the ADO Bus Terminal in the Jalatlaco neighborhood.
From the bus station you can either walk to your hotel or take a taxi depending on how much luggage you have.
The walk to the historic city center from the bus terminal will take about 15-25 minutes.
How To Get From Oaxaca Airport to Oaxaca City
The two most common ways to get to Oaxaca City is to take a taxi colectivo which is a small shuttle bus that fits about 8 – 10 passengers or book a private shuttle transfer.
I had thought I had purchased fare for a taxi but was placed in a taxi colectivos where they wait until it is filled up to leave and drop off at each person’s hotel.
It took a little longer than I would have preferred but at the time solo taxis weren’t available and was still easy enough.
Book Your Private Airport Shuttle Here!
Tip: Right before you exit the airport, there is a stand where you must purchase your taxi ticket before you get into one.
FAQs About Day Of The Dead In Oaxaca
How Far In Advance Do I Need To Book Hotels?
If you want to stay near all the top activities during Day of the Dead, you need to book your hotel 10 – 12 months in advance. That is if you want the best location in Oaxaca’s historic city center and for the best rates.
Who Is La Catrina?
La Catrina is the iconic image or the face of Day of the Dead in modern times but didn’t become tied to the celebration until the 1940s. La Catrina is a woman skeleton with marigold flowers adorning her head, wearing a long flowy dress and the most popular image of Day of the Dead.
She was first created around 1911 and was a drawing to represent the defiance of European influence, hence the European style of dress and the skeleton a symbol of the poverty or simple living of the locals.
Is Day Of The Dead Better In Oaxaca or Mexico City?
If you want a more authentic Day of the Dead experience that is centered around traditions, has an intimate feel, and less of a mega party then Oaxaca is the best place to celebrate Dia de los Muertos.
How Many Days Should I Plan To Stay During Day Of The Dead?
I would plan for no less than 7 days to Oaxaca for Day of the Dead if it is your first trip. This will allow time to see the main attractions and the smaller festivities leading up to Day of the Dead.
If you have already been to Oaxaca and are just coming into town for the holiday, I would plan on arriving on the 28th or 29th and leaving on November 3rd.
What To Wear For Day Of The Dead?
There is no dress code for Day of the Dead as you can wear what you would normally wear while sightseeing.
Or you can purchase local dresses, shirts, and hats when you arrive to feel more in the festive spirit. As a reminder, this is not Halloween so please do not bring any kind of Halloween costume as that would be in poor taste.
Which James Bond Movie Features Day Of The Dead?
In the opening scene of the James Bond movie, “Spectre” Bond is seen walking through a parade during Day of the Dead. It was filmed in Mexico City and why Mexico City’s celebration has been much bigger ever since. Before this film, Mexico City didn’t even have the parade.
How Old Is The Day Of The Dead Holiday?
It is estimated that the Aztecs began the Dia de los Muertos celebration going back about 3,000 years ago. But is was much simpler than what we experience today.
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Vanessa Shields
Vanessa Shields is the founder of Traveling Ness helping people with trip ideas, itineraries, travel planning, and boosting confidence for female travelers to take a solo trip. She has been a travel writer and content creator since 2019.